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Hahaha sometimes!!

Woahhhh... Did you end up trying a new probe or? Now I'm invested and I have to know!! lol

Thanks! Quite frankly, I think Mig is just cleaner and easier to deal with. I wouldn't mind tig so much if it wasn't so fussy (all the cleaning, white glove stuff). But yeah, I always encourage people learn to zap some metal, turn some junk into 5 star food cookers!

Feel free to use this video to show them they F'd up! I hate when only half the parts show up... SMH

I certainly wish it was, actual lab results came back to it being a 66% match to Bars StopLeak.

@@TheFenderman Stop leak? Did you use any Stop Leak? Actually, stop leaks contain similar products which are found in antifreeze too. In any case, this gunk is very common on Passats in N.A. market. Problem is massive. Switching to G12++ is never a bad idea

@@hid3nax No... I didn't use any stop leak. Not anyone with brain cells would use stop leak.The lab report shows that and I'll gladly show it on a different video. I'm still cleaning that trash out to this day, and why I had it sent to a lab. It should actually be illegal to manufacture or sell in my opinion.

@@TheFenderman Well, if you didn't use stop leak then it looks very typical/identical to what other Passats NMS experience with the very same nasty gunk inside cooling system. Good luck fighting with that, hell knows what chemistry will be able to dissolve this without causing iron and aluminium corrosion or degrading plastics. As for coolant, I'd strongly recommend switching to G12++ if you still haven't but use only good brands. E.g. VW OEM genuine, Pentosin or HEPU

I appreciate that!!! Thank you! Ehhh.. I wish I had, propane tanks that big are hard to come by in the north 😏. Buuuut I’ve been enjoying this build for a minute! Thank you again for the awesome comment! You made my year bud! 🙏

Ooooooof. Big ol oof. Seriously, I’m sorry to hear that. Were I you, I’d pull the valve covers and try to find the marks that way. I THINK they should have arrows or marks on them somewhere inside too. I’ll take a look at some of my manuals to see if that’s something that’ll work.

Hey, so I have some info for you. First things first, your mileage may vary and as always, do things at your own risk. Now that, that's out of the way. -I can tell you from experience that the cams don't USUALLY just spin and keep going in whichever direction, they usually stop at some point especially if the crank is at TDC. Hopefully yours is, reason being? I'm pretty sure they push the valves into the pistons which causes them to lock but not really damage anything unless you try to force it past the stopping point. -That being said, these guys here did a WAY better job than I could explaining how I'd go about the task of finding cam angles and tdc. www.hammerperf.com/ttspotcheckcamtiming.shtml -Lastly, from the looks of it I'm pretty sure they have indents in them that match up with the camshafts. They should go on, one way. Now typically the sprockets have a notch in them right on the lip where you can see the yellow paint on my video. I'd start there and triple check to make sure they're there on any of the cams, check the backs too!! That's about all I got buddy. I hope you get this figured out!

Noo, don't give up. I'm curious though, does it only do it while the car is warm/operating temp?

You have to say his name three times like beetlejuice.

Cool. You should make a video doing just that.

oof, yeah I've never taken one out of an S10 but I'm not surprised the word wires came up. Whatever you do, don't upset the wires in a chevy lol. I'm kidding, although I wonder if those are the wires to the safety start (cuts power to starter solenoid until the clutch pedal is depressed). Best of luck to you!

@@TheFenderman when u were taking that rod off of the clutch pedal how did u get it off, kinda hard to see with it facing the opposite way?

@@atownda_realesttv5585 Ah, I had to watch this again to see, yeah I didn't see very many good shots of that. If you're talking about that retaining hole (looks kinda like this at the end -------o) it should just pull off, it'll be tough but if you have a wide flat head screwdriver you can usually get the pedal to separate from that retaining ring. If you look at 4:55 there's little tiny black pieces (Retaining clips), and if you look at 8:52 right next to my hand you'll see the pedal and a knobbed...tapered piece of metal with the green washer on it. That's what connects together, IIRC I used a little forked tool called a "auto trim panel removal tool" if you look that up on amazon you should see what that tool kinda looks like. But working that ring back and forth with a bit of patience seemed to do just fine without breaking anything.

@@TheFenderman yup your sure right I just popped it right off, ty man!!

Hey, sorry to hear you're having to go through all that. So I found out earlier, by sending a sample to an actual forensics lab, that yes. The stuff you see in the video (at the beginning clip and during the flush) was in fact a 60% match to StopLeak. I haven't gotten around to making the video discussing my opinions on that but I definitely will. This was done deliberately by the dealership. In your case though, I remember reading that same bulletin and didn't find the same things. HOWEVER, I did end up switching my rig to G13 coolant. It seems to do rather well with it.

I can smell this comment... and I love it lol rock on dude!

@@TheFenderman thanks 😂

Not in human years! But marine components, in salt, may as well be dog year lololol

@@TheFenderman Valid.... very true 👍 👌

Sorry about the delayed response. I hope you got it figured out. If not. The manual specifically shows to go by the little plastic drain/leveler. So when that plastic piece is up in the transmission, it measures how much fluid is in it by allowing the excess to drain. 5L...5.3L.. It really doesn't matter as long as, after filling to a "drip" That you start it up, run it for 30 seconds in each gear (with foot on brake) and checking it again to see if there is a drip or none at all. (No drip = Add Fluid.... Stream of fluid = let it drain to a drip and try again) At least that's my understanding and I've since then put quite a few miles on this car with no problems. As always, your experience may be different than mine. Hope this helps!

From the manual: --- A plastic overflow tube is located in this hole (with 8 mm inner hex socket, tightening specification: 3 Nm). Its length determines the fluid level in the transmission. --------- Requirements The vehicle is level and all hoist mounts are the same height. The noise insulation has been removed. Vehicle Diagnostic Tester is connected. To begin working, the oil temperature should not be higher than 45 °C (113 °F). Test temperature: 35 - 45 °C (95 to 113 °F)

@@TheFenderman thank you kindly! You gave me confidence to take on this job :) keep up with the videos Cheers

Thank you so much! Cheers!

Thank you!!

Ah, good question! I'm using a Hobart Airforce 40i

Hmmmmmm!!!!! I like that idea!

Already did... Checkmate

@@TheFenderman😂 “Gotem”

How so? That took all of 2-3 minutes total..Including mixing up the rest with the knife. Didn't get oil everywhere...fingers aren't tired... Win win.

😂😂😂😂😂 U watched it tho💯🤣 just like I did

Certified hater

I can still count to nine on all my fingers!

Jeez.. sorry you went through that! Well, if it happens again in the future I sure hope this comes in handy. What’s messed up is, that’s a common defect enough that it should be warrantee but they squeaked out of it and know they can get extra $$$

Right on! Glad to hear it! Thanks for watchin'!

I haven't been able to fix it yet but at least now I know what I'm up against.

For sure!! Changed out the coolant with some different pentosin stuff.. BUT!! I got the lab tests back and the contents showed to be a high match with stop leak. I’ve been meaning to make a follow up to this video. Tell you what though, as soon as it gives me another cooling system problem that bad boy is coming off lol 😂

It's not sludgy coolant but you're definitely not wrong about it being in the Heater Core now...

Thank you! I appreciate that!

Thank you! Here's the reader info: ( Hex-V2 Dual-K & CAN USB Interface for VCDS ) Going to be honest here and say that was the best 200 dollars I ever spent on this car. Saved a fortune doing the transmission maintenance and figured out a bunch of other cool stuff. Hope this helps!

Gosh, I haven't had this motor in 11 years... Best of my recollection it was some kind of funky shock assist (At least that's what I also see at 00:01 if you pause it there with the cylinder right at the start). Then at 8:15 I can see more of the system on the right (Left facing it). I THINK that's where a lever is, if you follow the notched sides to the Left (Right, Facing it) like in 5:14 I see where the adjustment bar is, along there should be some linkage that should allow the motor to unlock and be able to swing freely. I'm sorry I can't be of more help, but that's about what my process for finding it would be without having it in front of me.

Thanks for the awesome comment! Glad you enjoyed it!

Cool!!! Yeah I've just had nothing but bad news when it came to the dealership turning wrenches on this thing. I am here to tell you, as of this moment I still drive this car around in this heat with no issues after I decided to fix the problems presented (funny how that works eh?). Fortunately, these aren't crazy complicated. The parts are a tad spendy, but every part replaced has paid for itself almost twice over already. I'm not sure if you have the service manual and all the other literature but it is definitely worth getting if you plan on keeping your TDI reliable. (When I bought it on "erWIN" which is VW's site, I paid roughly 30 dollars for it, best 30 bucks I ever spent) Thanks for watching and the awesome comment!!

Yeah looking at the online manual and printing what I need. Maybe an aultel scanner or vcds I’ve gotten by without on all my older vws but this one is a bit more modern 😂. Anyway thanks for the content.

Ugh.. I hate when stuff like that happens when trying to enjoy the summer weather. By chance, have you noticed if the motor is able to rev up all the way? Or is it only about half throttle? Usually that's a head gasket in my experience, an easy way to check would be to have the lower end in some water (so the water pump can pull) and take out the spark plugs, then try to start it to see if water comes jetting out of one of the holes. If so, that may be your problem, if not, it may be the fuel pump on the side of the motor. (The first test is easier though) Let me know how it works out!

@@TheFenderman I can try that and I’ll let you know, the tach no longer works but I pulled the plugs and there is no milky goop on them they seem to be clean, but I have noticed there is milk coming from exhaust like it’s not burning all the fuel

I don’t think it’s revd up all the way maybe choke is stuck

Cool! Yeah when I was experiencing the same issue on a different outboard (milkshake snot exhaust) I had like, a pinhole sized leak that would only rear it's ugly head under load. Ran fine, but one of my spark plugs eventually looked like it was professionally cleaned lol. Fortunately these little motors aren't TOO difficult to swap a head gasket on, the bolts just like to break if they've been exposed to salt for any amount of time. If you're thinking it's getting too much fuel, you could always adjust the carb but it might be a bad/stuck reed as well. Either way I'm hoping you get that solved before you have to go in that deep!

That's interesting! It very well could be! If I remember correctly, these don't necessarily have a "choke" but these do have an electronically controlled primer solenoid that "can" get stuck. If you hear it clicking, then it's probably fine. Also something I just thought of, before wrenching away too hard, I'd just double check the controller linkage to make sure everything is opening up and moving like it should. Could just be coincidental that as you fixed one thing, something else broke. (Murphy's law and all that)

Thank you!!! Should I show the whole restoration of the boat this belongs to? Contemplating turning this into a series, just not sure what to call it lol.

@@TheFenderman I mean for me its a definite Yes but i feel like that can be kinda annoying for you. Like restoring a boat is a pretty big project and then you will have to film it to

HOLY SMOKES! I was NOT expecting the Cummins mention... Tugged at a heartstring there! I appreciate you and this comment so much, THANK YOU!

@@TheFenderman no problem man just keep at it you'll get there, I've been doing social media stuff when I have time so I know how hard it can be

Ahh thank you, yeeah it was more the time than anything else. The one thing none of us can purchase, but we can all waste. Not to mention the dreaded algorithms lol

Thank you so much!! I'm glad you dig it!

@@TheFenderman I have a lot of Google doctorates lol and research so many topics. You have one of the best understanding videos I have seen. And I have seen a lot from different topics. ADHD has me learning everything. You have my praise. Can’t say it enough. Thank you

Had to go digging around for that piece of tube but I THINK it's a 3/8 OD and 1/4 ID. If I remember correctly it went to a Harbor Freight Brake Bleeding kit. Hope this helps!

Hmm...that sounds like a question a dealership would ask...🧐

@@TheFenderman no I'm just wondering how you learned all this. I'm a DIY guy, no formal education.

@@DJgoon12 Hey, my apologies if that was insulting, not my goal to do that. As you can imagine, by the time folks find my content they're elbow deep in a fecal situation and I get a lot of mixed comments, everything from bragadocious to name calling. To answer your question I have had on the job training and the good ol' college try when it comes to stuff I may not know. Way I see it, it's already broken, a couple of hours and a manual might fix it. Got more time than money so I just do it myself! PS: Glad to see a fellow DIY'er out there, the "get a new one" way of life is just not something I can follow.

@@TheFenderman you're good man. I'm not offended easily. And right on, this was a great video with good info.

Yeah same, I just wouldn't be surprised if the scenario I mentioned would have been the case lol. But hey I appreciate that, I'm glad it was useful! Hope to see you around in more!!... (Well...hopefully these are the last VW repair videos for a while haha)

Cool! Make a video and do that!

Unfortunately I no longer have that motor but I remember the serial number plate being underneath where the motor bolts to the transom (the bracket) sometimes it is covered under a whole bunch of grease, sometimes it corrodes off completely from saltwater. Were I you, I'd start by cleaning off all of the grime underneath the cowling and see if you can find it. If it's not there, you might find some interesting numbers toward the side of the block that houses the electric ignition. Hope this helps!

I THINK it was an M8. I got a set of those bits from O'reilly's PN: W1395 Product name: Performance Tool Triple Square Bit Set METRIC